Whenever I find myself in some place like the Napa Valley or Aspen that has been long populated by the lifestyle rich, I feel like it’s very easy to walk into a restaurant time portal. Ask about a place that locals like, and you will find yourself in a kind mid-1990s American bar and grill. There will be balsamic vinegar and fresh goat cheese, beds of whipped potatoes or risotto on which to prop hot-off-the-grill entrees, and lots of sturdy cabernet by the glass. I think this is the whole vicarious vacation vibe that a big local restaurant group is going for with their new Fulton Market spot.
I met up with folks there for a nightcap after having dinner in a very different kind of restaurant, and its expanse of blond wood and creamy yellow lighting made me squint; it was a little like coming out of a club and finding myself at a California Pizza Kitchen in a suburban mall. The wine list was an expansive and multi-page document in a hard cover, and it seemed comprised almost exclusively of California bottle. There wasn’t a whole lot of that natural wine funny business, no sirree Bob.
We only ate a pizza — a Cal-Neapolitan style that looked a little thin and slight and tasted great. The pliable crust was tangy from its ferment and well salted, and the simple Margherita toppings top notch. Not sure I’d go back for glazed salmon on a bed of grits or a $32 burger, though it could be fun to explore the wine list.